Choose the best interfacing for sewing by matching it to your fabric weight, project type, and desired finish. Use lightweight fusible interfacing for delicate fabrics like silk, medium-weight for shirts or dresses, and heavy sew-in interfacing for coats or bags. Always pre-test on fabric scraps to ensure compatibility and drape.
What is Interfacing and Why It Matters
Interfacing serves as the hidden backbone of quality sewing projects. This inner construction material lies between layers of fashion fabric, adding essential shape, strength, and body to your creations. Unlike visible elements that get all the attention, interfacing works silently behind the scenes to elevate your sewing from amateur to professional.
What is interfacing used for in sewing?
The primary purpose of interfacing is to provide stability and support. Specifically, it prevents fabric from stretching and sagging, customizes seams, and reinforces areas subject to strain. Interfacing strengthens areas where buttons, buttonholes, and other fasteners are sewn, substantially increasing the garment’s lifespan.
Moreover, interfacing proves invaluable for supporting embroidery and embellishments. If you have a heavily embroidered area that weighs down your fabric, adding interfacing offers the extra support needed. For knit fabrics, interfacing is especially crucial as it prevents them from stretching out of shape.
Where interfacing is applied in garments
Several key areas in garments benefit from interfacing. These include:
- Collars and cuffs for structure and stiffness
- Necklines and waistbands for stability
- Buttonholes and button areas for reinforcement
- Pocket flaps and hems for shape retention
- Sleeveless armholes to prevent stretching
Jackets and coats typically use substantial amounts of interfacing to retain their shape and prevent distortion with regular wear. Furthermore, interfacing stabilizes areas before inserting zippers and creates soft rolls on folded edges of hems.
How interfacing affects structure and drape
Interfacing significantly impacts how your finished project looks and feels. First and foremost, it provides body without bulk—adding crispness rather than heaviness. The right interfacing maintains the garment’s intended shape wear after wear.
Importantly, interfacing should generally be slightly lighter or the same weight as your fashion fabric. This rule ensures the fabric maintains its natural characteristics unless you specifically want to create an exaggerated effect or modify the hand and drape.
Since interfacing affects drape so profoundly, testing is essential before application. Simply drape the interfacing over your arm, place the fabric over it, and evaluate if it creates your desired effect. Remember that fusible interfacing typically provides more body than sew-in varieties.
To preserve natural movement, interfacing should follow the same grain as your fashion fabric. This principle helps maintain the look and drapeability of the fashion fabric throughout the garment’s life.
Understanding the Types of Interfacing
The world of interfacing includes several distinct types, each with unique properties that serve different sewing needs. Understanding these variations helps you select the best interfacing for sewing projects with confidence.
Woven interfacing
Woven interfacing closely resembles regular fabric with a defined grain line that must be aligned with your fabric’s grain. This type maintains a natural drape and movement in your garment, making it ideal for delicate fabrics like silk. Because it’s constructed just like woven fabric, it retains fabric-like properties even after application. Woven interfacing is particularly suitable for tailored clothing where maintaining the fabric’s inherent qualities is essential.
Non-woven interfacing
Non-woven interfacing consists of fibers bonded or felted together, creating a paper-like material with no grain line. This characteristic allows you to cut it in any direction without worrying about fraying or unraveling. Non-woven options are typically more affordable yet less durable after washing compared to woven alternatives. I find non-woven interfacing works best for crafting projects, bags, accessories, or garments that won’t undergo frequent washing.
Knit interfacing
Knit interfacing offers crosswise stretch with minimal lengthwise stretch, allowing it to move with your fabric. This makes it perfect for knit garments or stretchy fabrics where maintaining elasticity is crucial. For instance, a 2-way stretch fusible interfacing stretches lengthwise, crosswise, and diagonally, providing flexibility without causing wrinkles or puckering. Alternatively, 1-way stretch interfacing only stretches crosswise and works excellently for stabilizing button plackets or shoulder seams.
Fusible vs. sew-in interfacing
Fusible interfacing features adhesive dots on one side that bond permanently to fabric when heated with an iron. The primary advantage is convenience—simply iron on and continue sewing. Conversely, sew-in interfacing requires basting to the fabric before construction. Although more time-consuming, sew-in options provide a more natural drape and are essential for heat-sensitive fabrics like sequins, textured materials, or loosely woven textiles where fusibles might cause damage.
Types of fusible interfacing
Fusible interfacings come in various weights from featherweight to heavyweight. Lightweight options like Pellon 906F provide stable support without adding bulk, making them suitable for delicate fabrics. Medium-weight interfacings such as Pellon 911FF work well for collars and cuffs, whereas heavyweight options like Pellon 931TD offer firm support for active sportswear. Specialty fusibles include ShirTailor for crisp shirt collars and Easy-Knit for machine embroidery stabilization.
How to Choose the Right Interfacing for Your Fabric
Selecting the appropriate interfacing remains a critical yet often overlooked aspect of successful sewing projects. Once you understand the various types available, following these practical guidelines will help you make the perfect match for your fabric.
Match interfacing weight to fabric weight
The golden rule of interfacing selection is straightforward: choose interfacing that’s the same weight or slightly lighter than your fabric—never heavier. This approach allows the interfacing to provide structure without overpowering your fabric’s natural properties.
As a practical guide, consider these fabric-interfacing weight pairings:
- Lightweight fabrics (30-150 GSM): Use featherweight or lightweight interfacing for delicate materials like silk, voile, and lightweight cotton.
- Medium-weight fabrics (150-350 GSM): Apply medium-weight interfacing for quilting cotton, ponte roma, and similar fabrics.
- Heavyweight fabrics (350+ GSM): Select heavyweight interfacing for canvas, denim, and upholstery fabrics.
If uncertain between two weights, opt for the lighter option to avoid unnecessary stiffness.
Consider fabric stretch and drape
The stretch factor plays a crucial role in interfacing selection. For stretchy knits, exclusively use knit interfacing to maintain the fabric’s natural flexibility. Using woven or non-woven interfacing on knits will eliminate their stretch—a mistake that ruins the garment’s comfort and fit.
Additionally, select interfacing with slightly less drape than your fabric to add structure while preserving movement.
Choosing interfacing color
Despite being hidden inside your project, interfacing color matters. The rule is simple: dark fabrics require black interfacing, light fabrics need white interfacing. For mid-tone fabrics like reds, test both options on scraps to check for show-through.
When to use specialty interfacings
Certain projects benefit from specialty interfacings:
- Water-soluble interfacing for temporary stabilization that washes away
- Double-sided fusible for crafts and bags
- Wigan interfacing for hem stabilization
- Hair canvas for traditional tailoring
Remember that fusible interfacing isn’t suitable for all fabrics—avoid using it on textured or heat-sensitive materials like velvet, tweed, acetate, or delicate silks.
How to Apply Interfacing Correctly
Proper application techniques transform good interfacing choices into professional results. Let’s explore the correct methods for both fusible and sew-in varieties.
How to apply fusible interfacing
First, identify the adhesive side of your interfacing—it typically has a slightly bobbly, raised appearance with visible glue dots. Place your fabric wrong side up on the ironing board, then position the interfacing with the adhesive side down against the fabric. Cover both layers with a damp press cloth (an essential step never to be skipped). Set your iron to the appropriate heat—usually wool setting for medium fabrics—and press down for 10-15 seconds per section. Importantly, use a pressing motion rather than sliding the iron, as gliding can distort alignment.
Tips for using sew-in interfacing
Sew-in interfacing remains equally valuable despite fusible options being more common. Indeed, it gives garments a more natural look and drape due to less stiffness. Additionally, it eliminates those little “unglued” bubbles that can appear after washing fusible versions. To apply, pin all layers together with sew-in interfacing on top of your fabric. Subsequently, stitch along the designated seam line using a slightly shorter seam allowance than your pattern indicates. Afterward, trim surplus interfacing close to the stitching line to reduce bulk.
Common mistakes to avoid
Common application errors include:
- Using steam with fusible interfacing (unless specified by manufacturer)
- Not pressing long enough for proper adhesion
- Sliding the iron instead of pressing down firmly
- Moving the fabric while still hot (always let cool completely)
- Using incorrect temperature settings for your fabric type
Using a press cloth and iron settings
A press cloth protects both your iron and fabric while helping interfacing stick faster and more evenly. Cotton muslin works excellently—some professionals even recommend using two cloths, one beneath and one above your project. Match iron temperature to your fabric type, generally avoiding excessively high heat for delicate materials.
Pre-shrinking and grainline considerations
Pre-shrinking prevents future interfacing shrinkage. For fusibles, soak in warm (not hot) water until cool, then hang to dry without pressing. For woven and knit interfacing, pay careful attention to grainline direction during cutting and application. Primarily, this ensures your interfacing follows the same grain as your fabric, maintaining proper drape. Block fusing—applying interfacing to larger fabric pieces before cutting pattern pieces—often yields more precise results.
Conclusion
Selecting the right interfacing truly transforms ordinary sewing projects into professional-looking creations. Throughout this guide, we’ve explored how this hidden layer provides essential structure and support while enhancing the overall quality of your work. Undoubtedly, matching your interfacing weight to your fabric creates the perfect balance of stability without compromising natural drape.
After testing different interfacing types on fabric scraps, you’ll develop an intuitive sense for which option works best for specific projects. Initially, fusible interfacing offers a convenient starting point for beginners, while sew-in varieties eventually become valuable for their natural drape and compatibility with heat-sensitive fabrics.
Additionally, proper application techniques make all the difference in your final results. Therefore, take time to pre-shrink your interfacing, follow correct pressing methods, and align grainlines appropriately. These steps might seem tedious at first, but they prevent future disappointment with puckered seams or bubbling adhesive.
