If you have a serger (overlock machine) in your craft room, you have probably asked yourself: Can I use overlock thread for regular sewing? It is a common question, especially when you run out of standard polyester or cotton thread mid-project and spot a cone of overlock thread sitting on your shelf. Before you load that cone onto your regular sewing machine, though, there are a few key differences between overlock and regular thread you need to understand to avoid frustrating issues with your finished projects. As a sewist with over 12 years of experience working with both domestic and industrial machines, I have tested this swap more times than I can count, and I am here to share what works, what does not, and how to avoid ruining your fabric.
What Is Overlock Thread?
Overlock thread (often called serger thread) is a type of lightweight thread designed specifically for overlock machines, which use 3 to 5 threads to trim, sew, and finish raw fabric edges in one pass. Unlike regular sewing thread sold on small, 1-inch diameter spools, overlock thread is almost always wound onto tall, narrow cones that hold 3 to 5 times more thread than standard spools. This design is intentional: sergers use thread much faster than regular sewing machines, so the large cones reduce how often you need to stop and reload.
Most overlock thread is made of polyester or a polyester-cotton blend, as these fibers are strong, stretchy, and resistant to fading. It is also typically a lighter weight than regular sewing thread: most overlock thread is Tex 27 or Tex 40, while standard sewing thread is usually Tex 50 or Tex 60 (the higher the Tex number, the heavier the thread). For more details on serger-specific thread specifications, read our guide to whether serger thread is universal across different machines.
How Overlock Thread Differs From Regular Sewing Thread
- Weight: Overlock thread is lighter (Tex 27-40) than regular sewing thread (Tex 50-60), meaning it is thinner and less bulky.
- Packaging: Overlock thread comes on tall cones (3,000+ yards per cone), while regular thread comes on small spools (500-1,000 yards per spool).
- Finish: Overlock thread has a slightly smoother, more slippery finish to reduce friction as it passes through multiple serger loopers.
- Use case: Overlock thread is designed for finishing seams, hemming knits, and creating stretchy edges, while regular thread is designed for structural seams, topstitching, and general sewing.
- Cost: Overlock thread is often cheaper per yard than regular sewing thread, since it is sold in bulk and made with slightly lower-grade fibers (though this varies by brand).
Can You Use Overlock Thread for Regular Sewing? The Short Answer
The short answer to “can I use overlock thread for regular sewing” is: yes, but only in specific situations, and with adjustments to your machine. Using overlock thread for regular sewing without making changes to your setup will almost always lead to tension issues, thread breakage, or uneven stitches. However, if you are in a pinch, working on a non-structural project, or willing to tweak your machine settings, it can work temporarily.
It is important to note that overlock thread is not designed to handle the same stress as regular sewing thread. Structural seams (like waistbands, shoulder seams, or zipper flies) rely on thick, strong thread to hold the garment together over time. Overlock thread is too thin to provide that same level of durability, so using it for these high-stress areas will lead to popped seams after just a few wears.
Risks of Using Overlock Thread in a Regular Sewing Machine
Before you swap your spools, you need to understand the common issues that come with using overlock thread in a standard sewing machine. These problems are not dealbreakers, but they do require extra prep work to avoid.
Tension Issues
The most common issue is incorrect tension. Regular sewing machines are calibrated to work with thicker, Tex 50-60 thread. When you use thinner overlock thread, the tension discs will not grip the thread properly, leading to loose, loopy stitches on the top or bottom of your fabric. You will need to lower your machine’s tension setting (usually by 1-2 numbers) to compensate for the thinner thread.
Thread Breakage
Overlock thread has a smoother, more slippery finish than regular thread, which means it can slip out of the take-up lever or needle eye more easily. It is also less abrasion-resistant than regular sewing thread, so it may fray and break when sewn through thick fabrics like denim or canvas. If you are sewing heavy fabrics, avoid using overlock thread entirely.
Uneven Stitches
Because overlock thread is thinner, it may not fill the stitch groove properly, leading to skipped stitches or uneven stitch length. This is especially noticeable on lightweight fabrics like silk or chiffon, where the thin thread can pull the fabric out of shape. Always test your stitch on scrap fabric before sewing your actual project.
Bobbin Compatibility Problems
Most overlock thread is too light to use in your bobbin. If you wind overlock thread onto your bobbin, it will not provide enough tension to create balanced stitches, and you may end up with thread bunching underneath your fabric. Stick to regular thread in your bobbin, even if you use overlock thread for the top thread.
When Is It Okay to Use Overlock Thread for Regular Sewing?
There are a few situations where using overlock thread for regular sewing is perfectly fine, even recommended. These use cases are low-stress, temporary, or require the specific properties of overlock thread.
Temporary Fixes for Minor Repairs
If you need to repair a ripped seam on a pair of pajamas, hem a child’s t-shirt, or fix a torn pocket, overlock thread will work just fine. These are low-stress projects that will not be washed or worn heavily, so the thinner thread will not cause issues. Just make sure to use a small stitch length to add extra durability.
Basting or Test Stitches
Overlock thread is great for basting (temporary stitching) because it is easy to remove and less likely to leave holes in your fabric than regular thread. It is also perfect for testing stitch settings on scrap fabric, since it is cheaper per yard than regular thread. You will save money on test stitches without wasting expensive regular thread.
Gathering Stitches on Thick Fabrics
Overlock thread’s smooth, low-friction finish makes it ideal for gathering stitches on thick fabrics like canvas, denim, or upholstery-weight material. The slippery thread slides easily through the fabric when you pull it to create even gathers, and it is strong enough to handle the tension of gathering without snapping. It also leaves fewer permanent holes in the fabric than regular thread, since it is thinner.
How to Use Overlock Thread Safely in a Regular Sewing Machine
If you decide to use overlock thread for regular sewing, follow these steps to avoid common issues. These adjustments take less than 5 minutes and will save you hours of frustration later.
Check Thread Weight First
Look at the label on your overlock thread cone: it should list the Tex weight or the thread size. If it is Tex 27 or lighter, it will work for regular sewing. If it is Tex 40 or heavier, it may be too thick for lightweight fabrics, but okay for heavy fabrics. For reference, most standard sewing thread is Tex 50-60, so the lighter the overlock thread, the more adjustments you will need to make. Consult guide to thread types and uses for a full breakdown of Tex weight standards.
Use a Thread Stand for Cones
Overlock thread comes on tall cones that do not fit on standard sewing machine spool pins. If you try to balance the cone on your spool pin, it will wobble, leading to uneven thread tension and breakage. Use a separate thread stand placed behind your machine to hold the cone, so the thread feeds smoothly into the machine. Thread stands cost less than $10 and are a worthwhile investment if you use overlock thread regularly.
Adjust Machine Tension
As mentioned earlier, overlock thread is thinner than regular thread, so you will need to lower your machine’s tension setting. Start by lowering the tension by 1 number (for example, from 4 to 3) and test on scrap fabric. If the stitches are still loose, lower it by another number. If the stitches are too tight and the fabric puckers, raise the tension slightly.
Test on Scrap Fabric
Never sew your actual project without testing first. Cut a scrap piece of the same fabric you are using for your project, and sew a 6-inch test stitch with your adjusted settings. Check the top and bottom of the fabric for loose loops, skipped stitches, or puckering. Adjust your settings as needed until the stitches are even and balanced.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use overlock thread for quilting?
No, we do not recommend using overlock thread for quilting. Quilting requires thick, durable thread that can handle the stress of multiple layers of fabric and batting. Overlock thread is too thin and will break easily when sewn through thick quilt layers. Stick to regular cotton or polyester quilting thread for best results.
Is overlock thread the same as serger thread?
Yes, overlock thread and serger thread are exactly the same thing. “Serger” is the term used in the US for overlock machines, while “overlock machine” is the more common term in Europe and other parts of the world. The thread is designed for both, regardless of what you call the machine.
Can I wind overlock thread onto a regular spool?
Yes, you can wind overlock thread from a cone onto a regular empty spool using your sewing machine’s bobbin winding function. This makes it easier to use the thread on machines with small spool pins, though you will still need to adjust tension settings. Make sure to wind the thread evenly onto the spool to avoid tangles.
What is the best thread for regular sewing?
For most regular sewing projects, we recommend 100% polyester thread in Tex 50-60. It is strong, durable, resistant to fading, and works on almost all fabric types. For natural fiber fabrics like cotton or linen, 100% cotton thread is a better choice. Check out our curated list of top-performing threads for different fabric types to find the best option for your project.
Conclusion
So, can I use overlock thread for regular sewing? Yes, but only with the right adjustments and for the right projects. Overlock thread is a great budget-friendly option for temporary repairs, basting, and gathering stitches, but it is not a replacement for regular sewing thread in structural seams or high-stress projects. Always test your settings on scrap fabric, adjust your tension, and use a thread stand for cones to avoid common issues.
If you are shopping for new thread for your regular sewing machine, skip the overlock cones and invest in high-quality regular thread that is designed for your specific project. Your seams will be stronger, your stitches will be more even, and you will save time on machine adjustments. Happy sewing!
