Choosing which sewing needle for denim can make the difference between frustration and success. Many sewists avoid this thick, durable fabric due to its challenging nature, but with the right needle and techniques, creating beautiful denim projects becomes surprisingly manageable.
When working with denim, needle size matters significantly. For midweight denim, a universal needle size 90/14 generally works well, while heavier denim requires a larger 100/16 needle – often specifically called a “denim needle.” These specialized needles are designed to penetrate dense fabric effortlessly, preventing skipped stitches and needle breakage. In fact, understanding sewing machine needle types is essential for achieving professional results with this sturdy fabric. The right needle size for denim depends on the specific weight you’re working with, which we’ll explore in detail throughout this guide.
With a tailor’s mallet to flatten thick seams and a longer stitch length of 3 to 4 mm, you’ll find sewing denim becomes much more approachable. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll share everything you need to know about selecting the best needle for denim projects and techniques to achieve perfect stitches every time.
Understanding Sewing Machine Needle Types
Selecting the right needle transforms your sewing experience, especially with challenging fabrics like denim. Let’s explore the world of sewing machine needles to help you make informed choices for your next denim project.
Universal vs. Specialty Needles
Universal needles serve as all-purpose tools suitable for woven fabrics, synthetics, and some knits. However, specialty needles are designed for specific fabrics and applications. For denim projects, a dedicated jeans needle offers significant advantages over universal options. These specialty needles feature a stronger shaft and sharper point specifically engineered to penetrate dense, tightly woven fabrics without bending or breaking.
Furthermore, ball point needles work best with knit fabrics by pushing fibers apart rather than cutting them, whereas leather needles have a chisel-shaped point that cuts through non-woven materials. Understanding these distinctions helps prevent common sewing issues like skipped stitches or needle breakage.
What Makes a Needle ‘Right’ for the Job
The perfect needle match depends on three primary factors: fabric type, thread selection, and project requirements. Needle size corresponds directly to fabric weight—thicker fabrics need larger needles. Additionally, needle shape varies according to intended use; denim needles have blade-like points that easily pass through thick fabrics.
Thread thickness also influences needle choice since finer threads require smaller needles with appropriately sized eyes. Using the wrong needle type remains one of the most common sewing mistakes, often leading to needle breakage, poor stitch quality, and fabric damage.
Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle
Every sewing machine needle consists of several essential parts working together. The shank (upper portion) fits into the machine’s needle clamp and typically has a flat side to ensure correct positioning. Below this sits the shoulder, which transitions to the shaft (or blade)—the part determining the needle’s size.
The groove along the front of the shaft guides thread smoothly through fabric, while the scarf (indentation behind the eye) creates space for the hook to catch thread and form stitches. Finally, the eye allows thread passage, and the point (with varying shapes depending on needle type) penetrates fabric.
Needle sizes follow two parallel systems: the metric NM system (ranging from 60-130) and the SIZE system (ranging from 8-21). The NM number equals the needle’s diameter in millimeters multiplied by 100—so an NM 75 needle has a 0.75mm diameter.
Choosing the Best Needle for Denim
Denim fabric demands special consideration when selecting your sewing machine needle. Throughout my years of sewing, I’ve discovered that the right needle makes all the difference between professional results and frustrating breakage.
What Needle to Use for Denim?
For denim projects, a specialty jeans/denim needle proves most effective. These needles feature a reinforced blade and an extra sharp point specifically designed to penetrate thick, tightly woven fabrics. Denim needles have a medium ball point with a modified shaft that prevents needle deflection, reduces breakage risk, and minimizes skipped stitches. Their robust construction allows them to push through multiple fabric layers without bending or breaking.
When to Use a Jeans Needle vs. Universal
Though universal needles can work for lightweight denim, specialty jeans needles offer superior performance for medium to heavyweight materials. I recommend universal needles only for lightweight fabrics like chambray or Tencel denim. For regular denim projects—particularly when sewing through seams with multiple layers—a dedicated jeans needle provides greater reliability. Universal needles split the difference between ball point and sharp point needles, making them less ideal for heavy denim work.
Needle Size for Denim: 90/14 vs. 100/16
The weight of your denim determines which size to choose:
- Size 90/14: Ideal for light to medium-weight denim
- Size 100/16: Best for heavyweight denim
- Size 110/18: Reserved for extremely heavy denim, upholstery, or leather
Remember that larger numbers indicate stronger, thicker shafts. Additionally, size 100/16 needles typically have larger eyes to accommodate thicker topstitching thread.
Stretch Denim vs. Rigid Denim: Does It Matter?
Indeed, fabric composition affects needle selection. For stretch denim containing spandex, a 90/14 denim needle typically works well. The universal needle’s slight ball point actually benefits stretch denim since it can navigate between fibers without cutting them. Nonetheless, if you’re experiencing difficulties with stretch denim, consider switching to a specialized stretch needle instead.
Matching Needle Size to Fabric Weight
The relationship between fabric weight and needle size plays a crucial role in successful denim sewing. The wrong pairing can lead to broken needles, skipped stitches, or damaged fabric. Let me guide you through selecting the perfect needle size for any denim project.
Lightweight Denim: Recommended Sizes
For lightweight denim fabrics like chambray or tencel denim, smaller needle sizes work best. I recommend using an 80/12 universal needle for very light denim. For standard lightweight denim, a 90/14 needle provides excellent results without causing excessive puncture damage. These smaller needles create cleaner holes while still being strong enough to penetrate the fabric.
Modern lightweight denim, especially those with stretch components, responds well to these moderate-sized needles. Remember that using a needle that’s too large for lightweight denim will create visible holes in your fabric, potentially ruining your project.
Heavyweight Denim: What to Use
Heavyweight denim demands stronger, larger needles. For traditional heavy denim, a 100/16 size needle is ideal. For extremely thick denim or multiple layers, step up to a 110/18 or even 120/20 needle. These larger needles have substantially stronger shafts designed to withstand the pressure of penetrating dense fabric.
Moreover, heavyweight denim needles feature reinforced blades that resist flexing or breaking when pushed through thick seams. This reinforcement essentially eliminates needle deflection issues common with universal needles.
How to Read Needle Size Numbers (Metric/Imperial)
Needle packaging displays two numbers (like 90/14) that represent the same measurement in different systems. The first number uses the European metric system (60-120), while the second uses the American imperial system (8-20).
Both numbers indicate the needle’s diameter – larger numbers mean thicker needles. For instance, a 90 needle measures 0.9mm in diameter. The metric number increases by 10s (60, 70, 80), while the imperial equivalent increases by 2s (8, 10, 12).
Consequently, when you see “100/16” on a needle package, you’re looking at a needle that’s 1.0mm thick – perfect for standard heavyweight denim. Understanding this dual numbering system helps you select appropriate needles regardless of which measurement system the packaging emphasizes.
Tips for Sewing Denim with the Right Needle
Beyond selecting the right needle, these practical tips ensure your denim project succeeds from start to finish.
Test on Scrap Fabric First
Initially, always test your needle and settings on scrap denim before diving into your main project. This simple step helps you verify that your chosen needle penetrates the fabric properly without creating excessive holes or causing tension issues. Experiment with different needles on swatches to check if the needle hole isn’t too large or if the needle struggles to penetrate the fabric. If problems arise, try switching to a sharper point or a needle with a larger eye.
Change Needles Regularly
Even the best needle for denim has a limited lifespan. Replace your needle after approximately 6-8 hours of active sewing time or at the start of each new project. As needles dull, they become less efficient at pushing through fabric threads, leading to skipped stitches and potential damage. An unmistakable sign you need a new needle is thread breakage despite correct tension settings.
Use a Mallet or Clapper for Thick Seams
Prior to sewing thick seams, use a tailor’s mallet to flatten them. This breaks down fibers slightly, making them easier to penetrate. After pressing a seam with steam (if your fabric allows), place a wooden clapper on the seam and hold for 5-10 seconds. The wood traps steam, helping create flatter seams that are easier to sew through.
Pairing Thread with Needle Type
Match your thread weight with your needle size—thicker threads require larger needle eyes. For topstitching denim, use a size 100/16 needle with its larger eye to accommodate specialty denim thread. Above all, if your machine shreds cotton topstitching thread, try switching to polyester upholstery thread which offers similar thickness but smoother passage through the needle.
Avoiding Skipped Stitches and Breakage
To prevent frustrating skipped stitches:
- Hold denim taut while sewing
- Switch to longer stitch length for multiple layers
- Use a hump jumper or folded fabric behind the presser foot to level it when crossing thick seams
- Hand-turn the wheel when navigating extremely thick areas
- Keep your machine clean and free of lint
Following these techniques transforms denim from challenging to manageable, letting you create professional-looking projects with minimal frustration.
Conclusion
Sewing with denim certainly presents unique challenges compared to other fabrics. Throughout this guide, we’ve seen how choosing the right needle makes all the difference between frustrating breaks and professional results.
Undoubtedly, specialty denim needles offer significant advantages with their reinforced shafts and sharper points specifically designed for thick, tightly woven fabrics. For lightweight denim, an 80/12 or 90/14 needle works beautifully, while heavyweight denim demands a stronger 100/16 or larger needle. Additionally, remember that stretch denim might benefit from different needle choices than rigid varieties.
Beyond needle selection, success with denim projects depends on several practical techniques. Testing on scrap fabric first, changing needles regularly, and using a mallet to flatten thick seams will drastically improve your results. Likewise, matching your thread weight to your needle size ensures smooth stitching without frustrating breakage.